FAQ

Hard starting, rough idle, ticking from the front of the engine, misfires, loss of power, or oil leaks from the timing cover area. If service history is unknown, treat it as due.

It may crank longer before starting, stumble at idle, hesitate on acceleration, or feel down on power. In worst cases it won’t start at all.

Sometimes—ticking/whirring noises, visible cracking or glazing (if inspectable), or warning lights from related sensors. But belts often fail with little warning, so mileage/age is the safest guide.

Check the service book/invoices first. If it’s past the time or mileage interval or the condition looks cracked, shiny, or contaminated with oil/coolant, replace it. Not sure? We’ll check and advise.

Typically 60,000–100,000 miles or 5–7 years, depending on the manufacturer and engine.

You might hear a light ticking/whirring from the timing area, or chirping on start-up. Noise isn’t guaranteed—many belts fail quietly.

A toothed rubber belt that keeps the camshaft(s) and crankshaft perfectly in sync so valves and pistons move at the right time.

Yes—two names for the same part. (A timing chain is the metal alternative.)

It’s precise work. Covers, tensioners and pulleys come off; the engine is re-timed to manufacturer marks; then everything is torqued and tested. Plan on a same-day job for most cars.

If you’re near the interval or don’t have proof it was done, book a check. We can confirm the schedule by reg/VIN and inspect related components.

Some do, but rubber ages. After 7 years most manufacturers recommend replacement regardless of mileage. Ten years is pushing your luck.

Yes. A snapped belt can bend valves and damage pistons—repairs can run into the thousands. Replacing on time is far cheaper.

No — MOT tests don’t include the timing belt. It’s part of maintenance, not the MOT inspection.